Toyota 4WD Surf Owners • View topic - VT V8 into 4 Runner (V8 VID)

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2008 9:37 am 
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Struth wrote:
The V6 fuel pump is sweet for feeding the V8, I just hooked the standard fuel and return lines to the V8 fuel rail.

make sure you do a thread on your engine swap :D

And I will check the link out.

cheers


thanks struth

i will be doing a write up, though its going to be a pretty long winded one, seeing i will have a 4wd to run around in,
i wont be in a desperate hurry to get the conversion up and running so i can still get around,i will just be doing bits of the conversion as i get money and get the parts,

first thing i will be doing is going to see an engineer that is authorised to approve modifications for the rta in nsw,

have already spoken to him, its a matter of paying a $400 upfront fee, he goes through stuff with me tells me what needs to be done etc and gets the paper work in the pipeline,
theres no time limit to get it done and if the laws change in the meantime regarding whats engine swaps are allowed im still sweet to keep doing mine as its been logged with the rta.
im going to do the 2 inch body lift and get it all engineered at the same time, that way its no extra cost,

when its all done theres a final fee payable of about $250 for the last inspection approval and the engineers certificate

as i say the above if for NSW i don't know about other states so check with your relevant authorities,

ive pretty much decided to go through a place in Moree nsw for my parts, they fab them up and ive heard they are pretty clued up on everything to do with V6 conversions as thats all they do, the pricing doesnt seem to bad as well

http://www.v6conversions.com.au/index.html

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 03, 2008 5:56 pm 
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just wondering how u did the wiring up for the motor to the body. could u point me to the right direction. am transplanting a 304 with a t5 into my beast atm and am after a way to do the wiring. thanks


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 03, 2008 8:54 pm 
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If you use the Marks engine loom kit and follow the instructions it's pretty easy. Where marks say to feed wires through the firewall and under the dash to pick up ignition and starter wires etc, I simply came across the engine bay and found the suitable wires to splice into on the Toyota loom.

Rewiring the 4WD system will require a bit of electrical knowledge.

I cut the loom for the V6 on both sides of the engine then spliced what was needed back in later.

depending on where you fit the oxy sensors to the exhaust you may have to extend the wiring on the holden ones.

Cheers

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 03, 2008 10:07 pm 
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ok cool thanks. do u have the site or phone number for this place


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 29, 2008 3:51 pm 
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struth

did you buy your flywheel through marks, if so did the flywheel bolt up to the auto flexplate or was just a straight up rigid flywheel to the back of the motor , did you have to get your flywheel balanced before you put it on ,

im going the 3.8 at the moment , im guessing the v6 and v8 flywheel set up should be the same not as in size etc but same system for adapting, i have the motor here but as you say nothing at the back of the motor, just the 8 bolts where the auto flexplate was,

marks do a solid flywheel that bolts to the auto flexplate, or crs do a solid flywheel that bolts straight on the motor but they say it has to be balanced, i would prefer using the auto ring gear as i can get away with using the auto starter which you can buy anywhere cheap.


http://www.marks4wd.com/products/engine-parts/MFK1247EC.html

cheers

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 29, 2008 7:03 pm 
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I used a full flywheel from the wreckers, just had it machined first.
I fitted an Exody Holden clutch and a new Toyota clutch plate.

The marks gear will probably work well for the V6.

I also used the original Holden Auto starter motor, I would think it would be the same on the V6, but don't know.

Cheers

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 29, 2008 9:05 pm 
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Struth wrote:
I used a full flywheel from the wreckers, just had it machined first.
I fitted an Exody Holden clutch and a new Toyota clutch plate.

The marks gear will probably work well for the V6.

I also used the original Holden Auto starter motor, I would think it would be the same on the V6, but don't know.

Cheers


thanks for the info struth

thats one thing cleared up for me

might be a cheaper way for me, to chase up a used flywheel ,

hopefully the auto starter will work on the v6 as well

thanks

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PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2008 3:52 pm 
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Hi Struth

Got another one for you , hope you don't mind

Your holden engine was an auto i believe, did your engine come with the loom on it, if so did you use that loom and get an auto computer reprogrammed to suit the manual install or was it just a matter of putting a manual chip in the auto computer.

Just wondering as my V6 transplant motor is from an auto, with an auto loom on the motor, i was wondering if you had to get a manual loom for your engine or just use the auto one with marks loom as well,

When you say marks loom do you mean as in relays , bcm anti theft bypass stuff etc , that just connects to your existing wiring from the 3vze,

thanks in advance
deano

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PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2008 4:51 pm 
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Deano,

I am still chasing a memcal change to suit the manual.

I have a bloke in Dromana who reckons he can do a suitable memcal change over for $250.00.

I will be ringing him next week to make sure we are both talking the same language re what he is offering and what I require.

The marks loom for the V8 comes with a relay box and associated loom that plugs into the Holden loom. So you need the Holden loom and computer. There is other wiring required to tie in with the Toyota wiring as well, approximately 8 wires.

Marks do a memcal change to ignore the lack of a Holden BCM for about $400.00.

The guy in Dromana will do it for $250.

So I am still learning what will make my engine swap perform best.

And feel free to ask any questions you have, that's how I researched my swap too.

Cheers

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PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2008 5:18 pm 
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Thanks Struth

So are you still running your engine on the straight out holden ecu , surprises me it is running well with the crank angle sensor , the auto change settings etc in it,

Thats Doctor Bob from Just Commodores forum, ( Robs Creative Calibrations"
ive been in touch with him a bit via email , he seems to know his stuff pretty well, he said he could take all the auto settings and bcm settings out of the memcal, but a conversion place i spoke to said not to take the bcm settings out and use the bcm with their loom, its needed to run properly , but as you say $400 at marks , so i dont know if they just want you to buy there stuff or it can be done ,

As im sure you have found out during all your work, you get different information from people you talk to and its hard to know which way to go,

I'm still researching and getting all my parts together, so hopefully when im ready to go im all up to speed with everything,

Let me know how you get on with your memcal from the guy at Dromana i'd be really interested to hear how it all goes,

thanks again
Deano

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PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2008 9:33 pm 
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Cheers mate.

I am sure mine doesn't run anywhere near as well as it could, more power and smoother shouldn't be hard for someone who knows how to program the memcal. The fuel economy also sucks big time, so I reckon it's dumping way to much fuel in most of the time.

Will let you know how I go.

I thought also that the BCM is simply central locking, alarm, immobiliser, etc.

Cheers

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PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2008 10:07 pm 
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Thats what i thought struth, there are a few different bcm's , low level, medium and high level , you wouldnt think not having the central locking or alarm etc etc would matter ,

by the way do you have the work shop manual for your motor,

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 02, 2008 6:57 pm 
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Hi Struth

Good to hear you got your coil pack sorted out and running
Did you end up getting Rob to do your memcal or you just get a manual memcal and put it in yourself, did you sort out your bcm stuff, btw how did you go with that holden workshop manual

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 02, 2008 9:08 pm 
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Coil/ignition failed again. back in the shed tomorrow night.

Rob did the Memcal, she goes heaps better and I get 13L per 100km around town on the 33s no less :D

Very happy with that. I didn't check the manual out but I got some excellent info today re all the computer plug pins, what they do and what voltage they should show. very helpful stuff to know.

Cheers

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 29, 2008 3:39 pm 
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Struth

Do you have any balance / vibration issues with your motor , reason i ask is you say you got a flywheel from the wreckers, seeing you changed from auto, im chasing a flywheel up as well

ive been told you need to send the flexplate to them so they can balance the new flywheel the same , apparently there up to 6 different type of balance weights on the flexplate, or use the marks design flywheel that bolts to the original flexplate thus keeping balance in the motor , my problem is my engine didnt come with the flexplate for some reason , so just curious as to if you noticed anything

cheers

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 29, 2008 4:30 pm 
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I simply got a SH flywheel, had it machined and bolted it to the back of the motor where the ring gear would normally go.

No bad vibes yet after 6 months of running.

Cheers

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 29, 2008 4:57 pm 
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thanks for the info struth
Its the 1st i had heard of it, dellows brought it up when i was talking to them, i think i will just grab the one from castlemaine rodshop with the auto ring gear and bolt it up to the motor , they didnt mention about mirror balancing it ,



Struth wrote:
I simply got a SH flywheel, had it machined and bolted it to the back of the motor where the ring gear would normally go.

No bad vibes yet after 6 months of running.

Cheers

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 17, 2008 2:43 pm 
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struth whats left to do to the beast?

hows the bullbar coming along aswell? unless i have missed something....

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 17, 2008 9:20 pm 
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dar_sbb wrote:
struth whats left to do to the beast?

hows the bullbar coming along aswell? unless i have missed something....


One of these days I will get to finish making the wiring tidy, mount the computer and fit an airbox and snorkel, then I can get it tuned and hopefully find out why it sucks so much juice.

Otherwise it goes ok.

Cheers

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 18, 2008 10:47 am 
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i also have to mount the ecu, fit an airbox and a snorkel... and figure out why it drinks so much petrol.... i think have the reason is my foot tho... but the fuel consumption is not good at all. I do need to change my oxy sensors... hopefully that will help.

are u gonna fab up a snorkel or just buy one?

are u still fabbing up the bullbar?

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 18, 2008 3:33 pm 
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Will fab a snorkel.

I am doing the bar but out of carbon steel now, not stainless.

As soon as I get Greg's car out of my shed I will start my bits again.

Cheers

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 19, 2008 1:20 pm 
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im looking at doing one to... but not anytime soon... will have to come around and check it out. good stuff!

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 12, 2009 6:59 pm 
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Luke as requested mate some p/steer and alternator info,

The alternator is mounted on a standard 308 cast aluminium bracket. I machined it down where it bolts to the head so the pulley aligns with the rear pulley on the motor. The alternator is standard VN/VP vee pulley V8 unit.
Image

The power steering pump is standard 4 Runner I used a home bracket that spaces it 5mm off the head, this way the standard 4 Runner p/steer hoses fit perfectly.
Image

I had a pulley like this machined up at the local pulley shop, this aligns the power steering with the front pulley on the motor.
Image

If you want to do it this way I can post up belt sizes too.

Cheers

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 23, 2009 7:45 pm 
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G'day Struth,

Did you consider using the commy auto gbox when you were researching your conversion? If so what pushed you toward the manual?

Cheers
Johnny

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 23, 2009 8:57 pm 
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johnnyboy_3vze wrote:
G'day Struth,

Did you consider using the commy auto gbox when you were researching your conversion? If so what pushed you toward the manual?

Cheers
Johnny


Mainly the R150 was already in the car and is a tuff as box.
Also without getting into an auto Vs manual thing I much prefer a manual for off road use so didn't even consider the auto.

I haven't done any costing but I reckon the two (Manual Vs Auto) would probably cost a similar amount once the transfer was fitted to the auto as well.

Cheers

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 22, 2009 7:04 pm 
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Struth

just wondering your reason for using the toyota power steer, was it the holden wouldnt fit or just the ease of not having to get new power steer hoses made up,

would you have any more pics of the front of your engine in place, mainly of it with the power steer and fan set up, looking down from the radiatior

cheers

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 23, 2009 11:31 am 
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Deano70 wrote:
Struth

just wondering your reason for using the toyota power steer, was it the holden wouldnt fit or just the ease of not having to get new power steer hoses made up,

would you have any more pics of the front of your engine in place, mainly of it with the power steer and fan set up, looking down from the radiatior

cheers


The Toyota was easier to fit to the engine IMO, and yep the standard lines hook up perfectly.

Will look for some pics,

Cheers

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 25, 2009 5:34 pm 
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Humble Gardener wrote:
Mine is setup the same as Leehams,
Commodore 7 blade fan & a thermo in front of the radiator (push through) on a 4 core radiator with Toyota top & bottom tanks. One thing that I rekon is a must is the shroud needs to be worked on to cover right up to the fan so it can draw air through the radiator.
I can and do run my car with the trailer on the back all day in summer days of 40+ degree and never have any heating drama's.
The other tip is to run a Tebba radiator filter that traps all the floaty's/scale the iron block gives off that way it won't block the core.
The top belt drives the fan, alternator & power steer pump & the bottom drives the A/C pump (endless air) and yes it all needs a clean :)

Image

Image

Image

Image



Howdy fellas.
thought this thread should be revived again.
Love the way that the shroud covers / goes over the fan.
is it the same deal for the underside HG ?

trouble is that I keep flicking crap everywhere over the engine bay... the full shroud over the top should catch most of the water, mud etc, but if it was the same for the bottom then that would prevent the bottom of the fan picking up crap in the first place.

cheers


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 02, 2009 9:13 pm 
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struth
your pics arent working on this post, says photo bucket account inactive or something :-k :-k

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 02, 2009 9:30 pm 
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they work for me deano, not sure if it just now or weather for some reason wont come up for you

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 02, 2009 9:33 pm 
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ManHyperSS wrote:
they work for me deano, not sure if it just now or weather for some reason wont come up for you


strange, this page works fine for pics but page 3 doesnt #-o
dont know what is going on
cheers

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 02, 2009 10:27 pm 
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yeah page 3 dont work for me sorry, i just thought u ment this page

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What a pain I will have to rebuild the thread.

Photobucket shut down the account all the pics were in because it had been inactive for ??months.

It's been inactive because I don't know the password, or have the email address I used to have, so can't even get the password sent to me ](*,)

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yeah dont ya hate that i lost a few accounts that were linked to my bigpond when i ditched em, i opened a hotmail to run most from now so when i switch ISP's i dont get same trouble again.

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I know I am going over old ground here, but I noticed that your alternator mount only had 2 bolts to the alternator itself, is that a Holden idea or something you did to get clearance under the throttle body, I am about to modify my old mount by cutting the webbing down and remaking the brace so it still uses 3 bolts to help keep the alternator in alignment. O:)

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 16, 2009 7:24 am 
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I used an aluminium 308 bracket that attaches to the head. I had it machined down in depth to keep the pulleys aligned as well.

It bolts to the head with 3 bolts and 1 of those bolts hold the alternator.

Not sure if this is how it was designed, but it works. Also has an old school slotted bracket at the bottom for tensioning the belt.

can supply pics if you need.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 16, 2009 12:28 pm 
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Not needed yet, I am hoping to go back to work next year, and that means I can fab up some things I need for the car. Makes life so much easier when you use punches and croppers for holes and cutting steel and presses for folding nice neat bends in things. You will see when I have got back into it all. :D

Clive.

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 Post subject: 91 4runner 308vq
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hi there stuth. I am in the middle of doing my conversion. I have a 91 4runner automatic. I baught a vq statesman 5.0 litre. I then baught a vn ss t700 tanny and got the output shaft changed. I than baught an adapter from mark adapters to adapt the five speed manual transfer case to the t700 transmission but now i have a major promblem with the cross member. I baught the mark adapter mounting brackets that a one inch thick that get welded to there new position witch i was hoping was about 80 something mm's but it turns out that to get my crossmember to meet up with the holes on the new transfer case, it has to be moved back around 200mm's which is to far plus the mounts from my old transfercase are completely different to the mounts needed for the new transfercase. what a nightmare. it s doing my head in. any sugestions. plus i now have a manual transfercase and an automatic transmission so the consoles going to be fun (NOT). i went and baught a manual transfer case shiter today to mount to the transfer adapter and the holes were different so now im trying to work out which one i need.


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I am not sure about the mounts on your transfer case, but the auto transfer case is very different to the manual one. I would therefore think the cross member is also very different. I would have a look around some of the wrecking yards and get a manual one, maybe someone in this forum may have one to suit your needs. I have used a manual transfer case as well but rather than moving the mounting point for the old cross member, I made a new cross member and used the original mounting points. I think with your shift, if you know what the transfer case came out of, it should have the same thing fit into place nicely. I know it might sound stupid to ask but is there a chance you have shift mount on backwards. I am not calling you stupid, sometimes things go wrong one thing after another, you get pissed off and forget to try simple things like turn the base plate around. I also think if you get a manual consul, you will find the marks kit will make it look neat as it allows you to use the original holes in the manual shift plate. I hope this helps.

Clive.

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1985 4 Runner.
Complete with loose nut behind the wheel.
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custom interior, many other changes made along the way.
Engineers have spent many years making your vehicle the best it can be, so why change it?


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 Post subject: Re: 91 4runner 308vq
PostPosted: Tue Aug 03, 2010 10:39 pm 
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sarjae wrote:
hi there stuth. I am in the middle of doing my conversion. I have a 91 4runner automatic. I baught a vq statesman 5.0 litre. I then baught a vn ss t700 tanny and got the output shaft changed. I than baught an adapter from mark adapters to adapt the five speed manual transfer case to the t700 transmission but now i have a major promblem with the cross member. I baught the mark adapter mounting brackets that a one inch thick that get welded to there new position witch i was hoping was about 80 something mm's but it turns out that to get my crossmember to meet up with the holes on the new transfer case, it has to be moved back around 200mm's which is to far plus the mounts from my old transfercase are completely different to the mounts needed for the new transfercase. what a nightmare. it s doing my head in. any sugestions. plus i now have a manual transfercase and an automatic transmission so the consoles going to be fun (NOT). i went and baught a manual transfer case shiter today to mount to the transfer adapter and the holes were different so now im trying to work out which one i need.
You have to remember the auto 4runners use what is called the integrated transfer box which makes the trans assembly quite long so if you grab a gearbox crossmember out of a manual diesel 4runner or a Surf crossmember all the problems there should go away

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 16, 2012 2:01 pm 
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Location: Melbourne
hi guys
im also in the middle of doing a vt 5.0 into a '90 surf. talking a nit longer than expected. engine in and bolted onto the surf mounts. loom at conversion joint so that can just go back to auto elec and wire in easily.
i want to keep the aircon, but where does the compressor go? my mechanic is unsure at the moment. engine fan and shroud behind rad and thermo fan in front? condenser? i know there is a lot of info in this feed and have to go through the whole thing carefully.
thanks a lot


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 Post subject: Wiring relays
PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2013 11:18 pm 
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hi guys
so the mechanic is playing around with the wiring on my surf after i had the loom converted.
just a few questions
1. on the EFI relay there is a loose wire needs to connect to something, could it be ignition? apart from + and - what else need connecting there
2. does anyone know what colours the wires on surf loom are for tacho, oil pressure gauge
thanks


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 8:12 pm 
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G'day, I will take a look at my diagrams tomorrow for you

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2013 9:02 pm 
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Who did the conversion on the wiring

There should be four wires on efi relay

Ground
Ign
Batt
And power out to injectors

Half the guys who convert the looms do an ugly job
They don't bother stripping the loom and fitting relays inside behind the glovebox

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 Post subject: loom conversion
PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2013 10:15 pm 
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the guy that did the loom did a good job, but he did them without the car so the mechanic just had to plug it all in. the relays are fitted next to battery now, the wire i was looking for on the efi relay was the ignition wire.

now just a matter of finding the other wires in the surf loom for tacho, oil pressure and something else i forgot. i was told yellow with green and yellow with blue???

will try to find out the other one


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