Toyota 4WD Surf Owners • View topic - Fault Code 14 - Timing Control Valve Fault

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 Post subject: Fault Code 14 - Timing Control Valve Fault
PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2007 8:59 pm 
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Hi Guys, I was driving along when suddenly the engine started rattling and wavering in the way it was running, the rattling noise is the kind of sound that diesels usually give when you first start them up, but it continued on.

The Check engine light came on, so I pulled over to make sure nothing was leaking etc etc. The engine was running OK but there was a weird rattling noise, I'd say like she was running a bit lean or something like that.

I turned the engine off, and then back on again, all ok....drove a bit further, the check engine light comes on again with the same weird rattling noise, I held her on a constant 2500 rpm and could hear and feel the engine that something wasn't right and confirmed on the Tacho a kind of slow up and down revving , say up and down about 100 rpm, up and down and up and down slowly pulsing as I drove along at about 70kph.
Really weird stuff, the engine light would go off, then on again as the problem was intermittent in the engine with the light going on and off, all the while this strange rattly noise was present.

The oil pressure was good.........the engine wasnt overheating, the alternator output was good also, according to the gauges

Not too much further along, I had quite a hill to climb so I really gave it to her, slowly increasing the revs and getting her working hard, she ran beautifully without missing a beat. I was near home and when I got there I let her idle for a while and gave her a few hard revs...no problems.

Is it dirty fuel, I changed the filter with a good quality one about 6 months ago, could it be a partly clogged injector nozzle or what, its got me stumped..........Any Ideas guys???

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Last edited by Nimzee on Fri Sep 28, 2007 5:53 pm, edited 3 times in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2007 9:48 pm 
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Nimzee

Run the diagnostic check and it should tell you what has gone wrong. Once the 'check' light has illuminated the ECU will have stored a fault code. Get that info and we might be able to tell you how to fix it.

Mike


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2007 11:20 pm 
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Location: Safety Bay. WA
Nimzee,
This is a memory I would rather forget, I had exactly the same problem, diagnostic check came back with codes 13 & 14.
Ended up being my Timer control valve, not a cheap part, but compared to a new fuel pump for a KZN130 it was cheap.
Hope this is not your problem. Best to completely check all possibilities before replacing this part.

BAKES


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 26, 2007 4:46 am 
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Location: Quakers Hill
It does sound like some sort of a fuel issue,Do the filter change first, since it hasn't been done in 6 months,Kms?????.
Also the small inline gauze filter near the injection pump.
Do the diagnostic as suggested.

Get back to us.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 26, 2007 2:11 pm 
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Hi Guys......thanks for the rapid responses, yep its fault code 14, timing control valve......I had a look at the filter you described Dingo, and sure enough it was pretty gunked up, I could hardly see any light through it, it was that bad.........I cleaned it all up with Carby cleaner, and will take for a drive shortly....failing this being the problem is there an easy fix or test for the timing valve?

I have taken a few pics of this mysterious and hard to see mesh inline filter, and will post on the site so that other can easily find it.

Thanks Guys.......

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2007 12:29 am 
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Location: Quakers Hill
Do not confuse Spill Control valve with Timing Control valve
SCV on top of IP
TCV on bottom of IP

Timing Control Valve Inspection

(a) Disconnect the valve connector
(b) Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the terminals.

Resistance: 10 - 14 ohms @20degrees
if not as specified , replace the valve

Inspect the valve solenoid operation
(a) connect the battery positive terminal to the valve terminal +B
(b) connect the battery negative terminal to the valve terminal TCV
(c) Check to hear a click sound when you connect the terminals.
If not, replace the valve.

IMPORTANT
Do not apply voltage /power for more than 30 seconds or burnout may occur. If you need to repeat the test wait for the valve to cool before doing so.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2007 12:18 pm 
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Hi Dingo, thanks will give that a go, I took her for a longer drive today and sure enough on comes the check engine light and at the same time the clickety clackety noise of and engine thats not firing properly/starved of fuel.........loss of power etc.....

Will let you all know how it goes........

Thanks.....

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 28, 2007 5:37 pm 
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Hi guys, yep its the Timing Control Valve (TCV)located under the Injection pump. Hey you know, that part would probably have to be one of the hardest parts on the surf to get to, its almost jamed up against the engine mount support bracket, in fact I have just learned that you have to take the bloody pump out to replace the part, oh and the part alone is worth....wait for it...........$800....that price is from Denso in Sydney, the company that make the bloody things :-# Oh well there goes another $1200 bucks, the Guys at Rankin Diesel in Bayswater are doing the job........It will take a full day for them to do it....it would take me a week probably, such a simple part, such a lot of muckin around just to change it over, apparently later model injector pumps have the TCV on the side of the pump where its easier to service.

What happens is that the valve sticks open, the the little rod like device that moves in and out of it gets stuck and wont retract, thus holding the pump in an advanced state. The timing on the pump is fully advanced so when you slow the engine revs down the injectors rattle, which is the rattly type of noise you hear......I was told by the diesel mechanics, that if you drove like this for a few hundred K's that youd risk buggering up the engine and do some piston damage.........so Id better get it fixed before I go on holidays.....aint worth the risk......

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 28, 2007 5:49 pm 
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I did find a previous post from 2005, so Im not alone with this problem, Click the link below for more:

http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/forum/view ... alve#60669

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 28, 2007 10:32 pm 
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Location: Safety Bay. WA
Nimzee
I did tell you the part was expensive, but if you haven't already done the job, toyota can supply it cheaper than $800, they quoted me $467, but had to wait 6 weeks, so I paid $600 from a denso dealer and got it the same day, 2hrs later the old girl was purring again.
I know it looks tight but it really is a simple job, like I said 2hrs it took me, and I don't move to fast.

BAKES


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 28, 2007 10:42 pm 
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Location: Safety Bay. WA
Nimzee
almost forgot, you do not need to take the pump out, just remove engine mount support bracket, and then you can get in with the allen key to remove the old one and replace the new one.

Remove the wheel and tackle from that position, if you have the 50mm body lift you will be able to do it easier than what I did.

BAKES


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 29, 2007 1:06 pm 
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Bakes you are a legend.........I will have a look right now and see if I can do the job by removing the engine mount....I checked with Toyota and they can supply the part for $430....unfortunately they were unable to tell be about availability due to the network being down.......

Will let you know how I go.......

Thanks heaps for the tip........

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 29, 2007 3:57 pm 
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Hi Guys, yep have taken the valve out, thanks so much BAKES that was just brilliant, was a bit tricky getting the tools in, but as bolts werent done up super tight they came out very easily. I tested the resistance of the valve and I got 10.5 ohms which is just in the range specified. I'll still get a new one all the same, I reckon theres trouble with the wires as when I moved them around with the meter connected I got all sorts of readings, so maybe an issue there, I tested the valve operation and it clicks in and out OK, but who knows what happens when it gets hot, as that seems to be when it plays up, never a problem from cold, its always about say an hour in from driving around when it cracks the wobblies.

Now I just have to let the mechanic know that they wont be fixing it, and they've ordered the part in for me at twice the price Toyota can supply it to me for. The Denso company that makes these valves is owned by Toyota, so you have to wonder what the hecks going on if Toyota can supply the part for around $400 and Denso can supply direct to the mechanic for an $800 price tag.

Will write more about the outcome of this very soon.

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No longer own a surf, just cost me too much in repairs


Last edited by Nimzee on Sun Sep 30, 2007 4:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 29, 2007 11:02 pm 
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Nimzee,
Happy to be able to help, thats what this site is all about.

BAKES


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2007 4:43 pm 
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Here is another link, this one is the injector pump number, pump serial number and part number for the timing control valve, all identical to mine, except of course the serial number.

Thanks to Bakes and Dingo for the detail.

http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/forum/view ... highlight=

Bakes out of interest how many K's does your surf have, mines just clicked over 160,000, just wondering if these valves have a limited K's or years for our model surf........?!!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2007 8:29 pm 
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Ok well Ive decided to wait for Toyota to get the part from Japan, I can get it trade price for $372 from Graeme Werner Toyota in Victoria, it could take up to 4 weeks, but the $$$ in the pocket will be well worth it, I did confirm the price at a couple of Denso Dealers in Vic and yes the valves that are available here in Australia (Vic and NSW) are worth $762.....ex GST......8-[

I refitted the old part today after giving it a bit of a clean, went fine until it got hot about 30 mins into the drive, then the engine light came on with the rattling noise, and it didnt go away this time. I pulled over as she was getting worse and was blowing a fair bit smoke under acceleration, I disconnected the timing valve and then replugged it back in, it ran fine for a minute then went cactus again. I let her sit for a bout 20 mins and then started again and drove off, was good for about 5 minutes then cracked it again, will let it sit for a while now and only do very short trips the shops.

I hope this info helps someone in the future........

Will take a few pics of the removal of the old valve with replacement of the new one, it may end up on the tech site, but thats up to the administrators.......

Cheers......Nimzee

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2007 10:37 pm 
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is this timing control valve exactly the same as on a brand new 22100-5b300 pump you can get from WA toyota dealers for about $350 i been reading about here


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2007 11:46 pm 
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Location: Nth.Brisbane Qld.
SurfCity wrote:
is this timing control valve exactly the same as on a brand new 22100-5b300 pump you can get from WA toyota dealers for about $350 i been reading about here


Good question. All i can say is they are different part numbers.

2L-TE 23010 54030. 1KZ-TE 23010-67030

Nev

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