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 Post subject: Oil Filter
PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2007 5:23 pm 
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Hey all, I did try searching but came up empty.

Can anyone tell me the part number of the 2L-TE oil filter? And a pointer to a decent retailer of said filter in Brisbane's S/SW suburbs? Even as far as Ipswich?

Thanks all!! \:D/

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'06 GU IV, Bullbar, Polyairs otherwise standard for now. But...
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2007 6:48 pm 
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Oil Filter - 90915-30002
Air Filter - 17801-54060
Fuel Filter - 23303-64010

And they are in the FAQ's

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2007 11:16 am 
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hey mattc,
if you can get to a repco store
and get a ryco oil filter it will be
a Z334 (between $30=40)
that is what i use on my 2L-TE 92"

dave

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 Post subject: oil filter
PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2008 2:57 pm 
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i have a 92 surf i just went to supercheap auto and got a valvaline compatable to z334 it cost 26.95 cheers buddy

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2008 3:20 pm 
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Get a genuine Toyota, they cost $39 but if you buy ten they cost $25.
You can not beat the genuine filter, the Ryco does not come even close and cost the same.

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Last edited by marc1 on Sun Jan 06, 2008 3:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2008 3:30 pm 
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Don't like to play one-upmanship, but my local parts place gave me an Oil Filter from Nippon Max Series - MO-129, with the following interchange numbers printed on it:
90915-03006, 90915-30002, 9091F-30002, V9111-2003
and it was cheaper than all those.

I also got a Fuel Filter, same brand - MF-197, with the following interchange numbers printed on it:
23303-64010, 23303-64020,186100-0653
and cheaper than I have found before too. Both filters seem to be doing okay (2nd time I have used them, on my 1KZTE)
Look around, it is worth it.

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'93 Maroon KZN-130 SSR-X 3LTD 1KZTE , Rear ARB Locker, Safari Snorkel, Nite Stalker 200 Spots, Bull/Tow Bars/Side Steps, Tints, HiClones
(2 ), Pirelli Scorpions (31X10.50R15LT), Uniden UH088, Polybag rear shocks, Rhino racks, etc.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2008 3:46 pm 
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yorta2 wrote:
........ Oil Filter from Nippon Max Series - MO-129, with the following interchange numbers printed on it:
90915-03006, 90915-30002, 9091F-30002, V9111-2003
and it was cheaper than all those.

I also got a Fuel Filter, same brand - MF-197, with the following interchange numbers printed on it:
23303-64010, 23303-64020,186100-0653
and cheaper than I have found before too. Both filters seem to be doing okay (2nd time I have used them, on my 1KZTE)
Look around, it is worth it.


With oil and fuel filters you get what you pay for. A cheaper filter is not a better filter is is a worst filter and you save the equivalent to a couple of coffee cups.

As for what most people comment, "the filters are OK" it begs the question how do they know?
The only way to judge a filter is by paying for an oil analysis, or, (much cheaper) relay on quality filters and not budget ones.
You can see a dissection of a Ryco filter and a genuine Toyota one in this site. I have also done it and found the Toyota to be outstanding. Unless you have a slow bypass auxiliary filter I wouldn't go experimenting with X brand to save $9

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2008 7:04 pm 
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i got a fleetguard filter which i have heard are very good from queensland diesel just off johnson rd browns plains first left once you go over the hill from boudesert rd and they were very cheap i got fuel air and oil and it cost me 30 something dollars

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2008 7:32 pm 
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marc1 wrote:
Get a genuine Toyota, they cost $39 but if you buy ten they cost $25.
You can not beat the genuine filter, the Ryco does not come even close and cost the same.


At the last service I did, the Ryco filter that I bought (Z334) cost me $23 from my local parts shop. So that is a LOT cheaper than the Toyota filter, as i don't fancy buying them 10 at a time.....
I'm not doubting that the genuine Toyota filters provide great filtration, but that doesn't necessarily mean that all other filters are crap and not worth using.
The main thing is that the filters are changed on a regular basis, and definately with every oil change. There's no point in putting nice clean oil through a dirty old filter...
Not sure whether you can get them in a Z334, but Purolator Pure One filters have supposedly been proven to be really good oil filters.
Dan.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2008 7:55 pm 
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Yes, you can get Purolator filters that match the Z334 - I have used them before. :D And I agree - change them with each oil change, however good they are supposed to be.

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'93 Maroon KZN-130 SSR-X 3LTD 1KZTE , Rear ARB Locker, Safari Snorkel, Nite Stalker 200 Spots, Bull/Tow Bars/Side Steps, Tints, HiClones
(2 ), Pirelli Scorpions (31X10.50R15LT), Uniden UH088, Polybag rear shocks, Rhino racks, etc.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 11:14 am 
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All i can say is don't bother using the Repco brand Z334 filter, I cut one open and posted the pictures on the MSN site. Its nothing like the genuine Toyota filter.

If someone can cut open a fleetguard filter i would be interest to see inside one.

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94 SSR-V KZN130 1KZTE Manual

Bundera live axle + arms, 80series pit arm, Lovells coils, manual hubs, 5 link Megalift kit, air lockers front(RD01) rear(RD23), 4WAY RTC, EFS shocks, snake racing tie rods, HR towbar, ARB bullbar & air compressor, Finer Filter, safari snorkel, 115Lt fuel tank, warne winch, GQ sway bar disconnects, IPF spotties.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 2:24 pm 
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i usually jsut get the ryco one from autobarn and change filters every 2nd oil change.... cant remember what it usually costs me though....

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BLUE: 1992 SSR-X
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GREEN: 1989 SSR Limited 2L-T 5 speed manual
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 4:17 pm 
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nico wrote:
If someone can cut open a fleetguard filter i would be interest to see inside one.


i will be doing an oil change very shortly so i will cut my old one up and post it

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MODS MODS MODS..... Does it ever end
90 LN130, Turbo charged intercooled 2.8, 2.5" exhaust, 33" 12.5s, twin lockers, Boost controller, Boost gague, EGT, 4"sus , 2"body, Free wheeling hubs, lots of dents.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 4:46 pm 
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Psykamaholik wrote:
i usually jsut get the ryco one from autobarn and change filters every 2nd oil change.... cant remember what it usually costs me though....


May be OK for a petrol engine. You don't want to reuse an oil filter on a diesel engine unless you have an inline centrifuge, something Surfs don't have.
I change oil and filter every 5000 k oil Penrite HPR 15 filter Toyota.
I don't agree with the logic behind oil/filter money saving exercise the same as I don't think it is sensible to buy cheap fuel from unknown origin. The risk are too high to be taken.

But that is only my opinion and it is your pocket.
:D

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 5:31 pm 
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well i'd never really thought about it before and noone had told me otherwise till now.... so i might rethink it tomorrow when i get another filter :D

but i do use the penrite hpr oil, the thickest one i can find...

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2" sus & 2" body lifts

BLUE: 1992 SSR-X
(1UZ & SAS to come - in progress)

GREEN: 1989 SSR Limited 2L-T 5 speed manual
Spare parts...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 5:59 pm 
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I've been using Cooper Oil Filter Part No 1017 - says on box Suits Toyota and Interchangeable with Z334. Been getting them from another Surf owner in NSW and only costs about $10 or $12 if I get 6 at a time.

Told from a number of sources that filter only has to be changed every 10K so have only been changing on every second oil change.

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1993 - 5 Speed Manual KZN130 - Sold

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 10:39 pm 
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Ryco Z334, Penrite 20W60 oil. Oil and filter change a 5K and not a problem with the filter or engine in over 5 years. Never had to top up oil between changes that I can recall.

Nev

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 7:07 pm 
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It appears that when it comes to oil and filters choice, it is like food or women, each one likes his own thoughts.

Wen for food and women that may be correct since it is the subject's satisfaction who is at the center of the answers ... snails in garlic or left handed Siberian redhead aside.... on the subject of oil and filters, the answer should be much more scientific and much less emotional.

To choose an oil over another seems to be slightly easier, since manufacturers are forced to produce some form of data that can be compared on their containers.

With filters is is a bit harder since there is no indication on the filter of the maximum pressure the filter can withstand, the size of particles it can trap, the overall filtering surface it contains nor, in the case of diesel oil filters, if it has two stages and what materials are used for each stage.

Why this is so, seems to be rather obvious, no one forces them to do so and who would want to label their own product the crap of the crop?

So people go happily to buy el-cheapo brand thinking that oil filters are all the same and that price is a marketing gimmick, that you can recycle the oil filter for two consecutive oil changes and other ideas on that line.

Reality is a bit different.

with oil filters you get what you pay for. Cheap means cheaper filtering paper, clog up sooner, no two stages filtering thin housing, particles as big as 50 micron pass through and the filter is saturated at 2 or 3000 Km, opens the bypass valve and voila, you are driving the next 2000 or perhaps 7000 km without any filter at all.


Thin housing of cheap and nasty filters... if you had an oil filter blow up on you, you would remember for the rest of your life.
Filtering medium. There are cheap and small paper filters and there are larger plated and resin coated paper elements who can retain down to 5 micron particles without clogging up.
Two stages. Only Ryco and Toyota make two stages filters for our Surf, yet the difference in materials used is noticeable. Toyota is the winner hands down.

When the above can be easily researched on the net, and a search on the lines of "are oil filters all the same" will produce a string of test from people who have compared dozen of oil filters and all the results, what I find interesting is the comments that people add to their choice of filter, namely, "I use so and so and have no problems."

Now if you would be talking about food and said, I like fish and chips, I can answer nothing to that. Ok, I may say... I like spaghetti with prawns garlic and basil, but that is just me.
Yet when it comes to a machine who's only line of defense against abrasion by small particles present in oil is the filter, it is not a matter of personal taste it is a matter of cold facts perfectly demonstrable.

When you may think that all is good when you change your oil and the filter every second time, and you buy budget oil filters, because the engine did not stop working, the reality is that only an oil analysis can tell you if your filter is working properly or perhaps dismantling your engine and measuring all the components for wear. A very expensive and unnecessary exercise that others have already done for you many times over.

Bottom line, you have no way to know how well your oil and filter are doing until it is too late, and even then you may be blaming overheating or other factors and miss the real reason altogether.

So just like you don't go to Woollies to buy Home Brand engine oil at $5 x4 L for your Surf ( I hope anyway), you should not, for the same exact reasons, buy cheap filters. Oil filters are not all the same just like shock absorbers are not all the same or tyres or cars for that matter.
Food or ladies on the other hand are a much more interesting subject of choice.

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Marc KZN185, D-Gas, 265x70 Maxis- 3" mandrel bent exhaust - H.R. T/B - Ryno tray - 36mm- 25 fin alu. Radiator - 71C Thrmstt - Plate & fin trans cooler - Lancruiser 80 series radiator fan - Bilstein shocks - King Springs. Cibie Super Oscars.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 8:51 pm 
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Whoa!
You are obviously pretty passionate about you oil filters Marc....
I have been using Ryco or Purolator oil filters on our Surf since we bought it (nearly 5 years ago). Oil (Penrite 20W60, just like Nev) and oil filter get changed religiously every 5000kms.
I don't doubt at all, the research you have done with regard to all of these filters and I from what you have said, MR Toyota's filters do sound to be 'the goods', except in the price department. $39 to me is excessive for a single filter.
But do you really think that I have been doing damage to my engine by using these 'inferior' filters over the past years?
Let's face it, as far as Diesel engines go the 2L and even the 1KZ engines are pretty low-tech compared to todays standard. The tolerances on our Surf engines would be much larger than what they would be in say a new hilux/pajero/navara or euro diesel engine. Surely this also has something to do with how much particulate crap can be safely allowed to float around in the oil in our older engines. So should larger tolerance engines be able to cope with larger particles floating around in the oil before damage starts to occur???
So where do you draw the line as to what is acceptable and what isn't?
Perhaps a Ryco filter does filter the oil to an acceptable quality (to provide bare minimum engine wear) over a 5000km life cycle? In that case, and with regular oil and filter changes, would the expensive Toyota filter just be an overkill?
I'm not trying to start any arguments or defend any particular brand.... It's all just food for thought.
I'm sure we all have one common goal though.... We all want the best protection for our cars, with the minimal cost.
Well I do anyway :)

Dan.

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 Post subject: Valvoline Filters
PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 8:52 pm 
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I have been using Valvoline V016 which is Z334 compatible.

The box and the website say "Valvoline filters are carefully designed to meet or exceed OEM requirements".

But how do you prove it?

Ratty

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'92 LN130 / 2.4 LTE / SSR-X / Auto
Added:
Rhino Tracks & Basket/ 31" Cooper ST's/ Tough Dog 15mm Coils/Tough Dog 40mm Foam Cell Shocks/Red Low Oil Pressure Lamp/Amber Temp over 92 Lamp/Green Coverter Locked Up Lamp/By Pass Filter/ Battery isolator/Temp Guage Mod
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Injectors, Fuel Pump, Alternator, Starter, Condensor Fan


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 8:59 pm 
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Hi Marc,

Different food and women will definitely make a difference on your health and life over a period of time.

Exactly the same with what parts and fluids you use in your vehicle.

I generally try to replace all parts with genuine Toyota parts - have a 3rd party Toyota parts supplier here. I notice that you are running a 71c thermostat - when I asked for one at this supplier and even quoted the part number, they quizzed me and when told them it was a KZN130, they would not sell it to me. Won't go into that any further as has been discussed in other topics.

Anyway, the guy who I got the filters through has a lot of experience and I am certain would have asked the questions.

It's good that you have done the research and this may stand you in good stead down the track.

The auto parts industry is big and obviously manufacturers will tell you to only use only their parts. Obviously, they can get away with this with vehicles under warranty.

I don't think that I have come across any threads on this sites in relation to oil filters blowing up.

I suppose only time will tell and that is probably the only measure - then again how many factors do you have to look at - no 2 surfs are the same.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 9:14 pm 
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I just paid for one of these.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Jackmaster-BYPAS ... 0188124466

Should have it in a few days and hope to install at next oil change due in about 1500K.

Nev

_________________
'92 LN130 / 2.4 TD / SSR-X / Manual / Garnet Pearl
31X10.5X15s
TJM - XGS Shocks & Springs
Rockcrawler - Adj.Panhard Rod
Uniden - UHO-75 Handheld


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 9:32 pm 
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NiftyNev wrote:
I just paid for one of these.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Jackmaster-BYPAS ... 0188124466

Should have it in a few days and hope to install at next oil change due in about 1500K.

Nev


What is involved in installing one of these

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MODS MODS MODS..... Does it ever end
90 LN130, Turbo charged intercooled 2.8, 2.5" exhaust, 33" 12.5s, twin lockers, Boost controller, Boost gague, EGT, 4"sus , 2"body, Free wheeling hubs, lots of dents.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 9:47 pm 
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Just tap into something like the oil pressure switch location and then T into oil return from turbo or vacuum pump. I may tap into the oil cooler at the yellow circled position where a plug is. Just replace with a brass plug drilled and tapped for whatever fitting I need.

Image

Nev

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'92 LN130 / 2.4 TD / SSR-X / Manual / Garnet Pearl
31X10.5X15s
TJM - XGS Shocks & Springs
Rockcrawler - Adj.Panhard Rod
Uniden - UHO-75 Handheld


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 Post subject: Re: Valvoline Filters
PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2008 11:09 am 
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Ratty wrote:
I have been using Valvoline V016 which is Z334 compatible.

The box and the website say "Valvoline filters are carefully designed to meet or exceed OEM requirements".

But how do you prove it?

Ratty


Cut it open and compare it to the Toyota filter, chances are it will be easy to cut open because the case won't be as thick and it could be a single stage paper filter instead of a two stage filter.

_________________
94 SSR-V KZN130 1KZTE Manual

Bundera live axle + arms, 80series pit arm, Lovells coils, manual hubs, 5 link Megalift kit, air lockers front(RD01) rear(RD23), 4WAY RTC, EFS shocks, snake racing tie rods, HR towbar, ARB bullbar & air compressor, Finer Filter, safari snorkel, 115Lt fuel tank, warne winch, GQ sway bar disconnects, IPF spotties.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2008 12:05 pm 
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im going to cut mine up when i do my next change, is there a good way to clean it before i do it would make it a cleaner job

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MODS MODS MODS..... Does it ever end
90 LN130, Turbo charged intercooled 2.8, 2.5" exhaust, 33" 12.5s, twin lockers, Boost controller, Boost gague, EGT, 4"sus , 2"body, Free wheeling hubs, lots of dents.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2008 1:08 pm 
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I look forward to seeing them in comparison.
May change to genuine Toyota filters.
I currently use a Ryco Z334 as I have been told it is a 2 stage filter.
The Ryco Z9 will also fit apparently but is a 1 stage filter.

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Doug.

1991 SSR Ltd., Ford 5.0, AOD, D300, 4:1 LR, twin sticks, lockers, etc.
36x12.5x15 Swampers on Designfab locks for play
Coil SAS by Buds Customs

Check ya nuts often, good health advice for you and your rig....


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2008 1:29 pm 
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http://groups.msn.com/toyotasurf/genuin ... otoID=7434

this is the filter i cut up yonks ago...it was brand new.

Have a look at my avatar and guess which filter this surfer recommends using!!!

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LN130G-GKPGT

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2008 5:31 pm 
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Parra, I see the filter in the pics is made in Japan. Are all Toyota filters made there?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2008 6:16 pm 
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Some are still made in Japan
However most now come from Thailand

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2008 6:41 pm 
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Aussie_Dan wrote:
...But do you really think that I have been doing damage to my engine by using these 'inferior' filters over the past years?
Let's face it, as far as Diesel engines go the 2L and even the 1KZ engines are pretty low-tech compared to todays standard. The tolerances on our Surf engines would be much larger than what they would be in say a new hilux/pajero/navara or euro diesel engine. Surely this also has something to do with how much particulate crap can be safely allowed to float around in the oil in our older engines. So should larger tolerance engines be able to cope with larger particles floating around in the oil before damage starts to occur???
So where do you draw the line as to what is acceptable and what isn't?
Perhaps a Ryco filter does filter the oil to an acceptable quality (to provide bare minimum engine wear) over a 5000km life cycle? In that case, and with regular oil and filter changes, would the expensive Toyota filter just be an overkill?
I'm not trying to start any arguments or defend any particular brand.... It's all just food for thought.
I'm sure we all have one common goal though.... We all want the best protection for our cars, with the minimal cost.
Well I do anyway :)

Dan.


About doing damage etc...You or me have no way to know. There are heaps of variables at play. Air dust/ air filter, external temperature, sludge, type of fuel, condition of your ring cylinders and pistons, fuel pump too rich or too lean etc. A cheap filter just throws in one more variable. Just like you choose the best fuel to keep your engine clean, or a good shock and tyres to avoid accidents, you choose the best possible filter. As for the price of the Toyo filter, after buying them one by one for some time I decided to buy 10 and paid ... hum I think it was $25, Parra should know. So that beats the Ryco in my books.

As for your comments on tolerance, besides the very desirable one that is lacking so much this days, tolerance in diesel engine bearings crank and camshaft and moving parts in general varies not so much according to technological advances but with the number of revs, compression ratio and materials used. A diesel engine is a very low tech machine and has not changed much. Large marine or stationary diesel engines that go at 700 revs have larger bearings and the space between the white metal and the shaft is larger than the space between the shaft and metal in a Surf. This will be so with a brand new engine.
However this critical space that is necessary for the variations in size of the metal that expands and contracts with heat and that is also in direct proportion with the surface that is in contact, the larger the bearings the larger the critical space, does not mean that the larger engine is immune to friction caused by particles in the oil.
A 50 micron particle that escapes the crap filter will do the same damage to a bearing in a Sulzer then in a Toyota 3L. the difference is that there is more metal in the Sulzer and so the damage will be proportionally slower.
The space between bearing and shaft is measured without load. When the engine is running the forces on the shaft press it against the antifriction metal to a very fine film. This film's integrity is what keeps the two metals apart and depends on the quality of the oil and it's pressure. If a paticle comes between the shaft and the bearing, the oil film is not thick enough to keep both surfaces apart.
Stationary engines because of the fuel oil used, produce so much carbon particles that they have a much more sophisticated filtering system. Many have centrifuge in line for the oil,(Fiat for example) the fuel has a polishing system to keep it perfect all the time, and all have been installing secondary and tertiary oil by-pass filters costing thousands of dollars. Stationary and marine engines are so expensive to overhaul that they are fanatic about oil and filters and have it all too clear that dirty oil will destroy the engine.

The Toyota engine in question is not highly tolerant of particles in the oil, no engine is. It is the injectors who can have a larger tolerance to particles of tar in the fuel, the larger the injector, the larger the tolerance and that is why you can burn fuel oil or diesel 3 on ships that we can not use in a Surf...well...unless you get yourself a centrifuge...but that is another story.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2008 11:42 am 
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Totally off topic guys, but do you know what the part number is for a filter to suit a '92 Hilux 2.8L non-turbo ute? Would it be the same as a 3L filter? Isn't the block the same? Would a Baldwin 7029 (for my 2.4 surf) fit?

Cheers!

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1990 Surf SSR 2.4L-T Manual
K&N Filter
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OME900 coils & cranked torsion bars
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2008 12:30 pm 
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Tmac wrote:
Totally off topic guys, but do you know what the part number is for a filter to suit a '92 Hilux 2.8L non-turbo ute? Would it be the same as a 3L filter? Isn't the block the same? Would a Baldwin 7029 (for my 2.4 surf) fit?

Cheers!

15600-41010

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 11:47 am 
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dirty dirty 4x4 wrote:
im going to cut mine up when i do my next change, is there a good way to clean it before i do it would make it a cleaner job


Let it drain for a week, then place it in a vice and cut it with a hacksaw using the metal lip on the bottom of the filter as a guide, keep rotating and cutting, you will know when you get through the case.

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Bundera live axle + arms, 80series pit arm, Lovells coils, manual hubs, 5 link Megalift kit, air lockers front(RD01) rear(RD23), 4WAY RTC, EFS shocks, snake racing tie rods, HR towbar, ARB bullbar & air compressor, Finer Filter, safari snorkel, 115Lt fuel tank, warne winch, GQ sway bar disconnects, IPF spotties.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 12:28 pm 
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Mr DJ wrote:
The Ryco Z9 will also fit apparently but is a 1 stage filter.


The Ryco book lists the Z9 as a filter for it but it definitely doesn't fit mine. the oil union thread on the oil cooler is way to big to thread into the Z9. the Z334 is the right one...it fits perfectly.

Cheers
Brenton

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 2:06 pm 
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Thanks, Parra.

That's the Toyota number, right?

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1990 Surf SSR 2.4L-T Manual
K&N Filter
31" Yok M/T's
Chrome bullbar
OME900 coils & cranked torsion bars
2.5" exhaust
A Terry-tweaked boost compensator
Aisin hubs
Recored rad
3L head


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 5:46 pm 
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Tmac wrote:

That's the Toyota number, right?


Yes. Just to clarify things the 3L you mention is the 2.8 Ltr engine and a Z9 is the aftermarket filter.

Nev

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 5:48 pm 
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brenton1984 wrote:
The Ryco book lists the Z9 as a filter for it but it definitely doesn't fit mine. the oil union thread on the oil cooler is way to big to thread into the Z9. the Z334 is the right one...it fits perfectly.


Don't you have the 2L-TE oil cooler?

Nev

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 7:29 pm 
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From toyota.com.au


Image

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 7:48 pm 
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Interesting labelling...

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 8:58 pm 
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NiftyNev wrote:
I just paid for one of these.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Jackmaster-BYPAS ... 0188124466

Should have it in a few days and hope to install at next oil change due in about 1500K.

Nev


I don't want to hijack the thread so will keep this short and sweet. I received the filter today and will be asking for a refund. :-#

Nev

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'92 LN130 / 2.4 TD / SSR-X / Manual / Garnet Pearl
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 15, 2008 7:46 am 
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NiftyNev wrote:
brenton1984 wrote:
The Ryco book lists the Z9 as a filter for it but it definitely doesn't fit mine. the oil union thread on the oil cooler is way to big to thread into the Z9. the Z334 is the right one...it fits perfectly.


Don't you have the 2L-TE oil cooler?

Nev


sorry. i should have clarified. it didnt fit my 2L-TE and it doesnt fit my 3L because as you said it has the 2L-TE oil cooler attached. I was under the impression that the 3L had the same oild union as the 2L-TE but i may be wrong.

Cheers
Brenton

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 15, 2008 8:39 am 
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brenton1984 wrote:
I was under the impression that the 3L had the same oil union as the 2L-TE but i may be wrong.


The 3L and other non turbos have a 3/4" filter thread.

Nev

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'92 LN130 / 2.4 TD / SSR-X / Manual / Garnet Pearl
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Rockcrawler - Adj.Panhard Rod
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 Post subject: "Frantz" lookalike
PostPosted: Tue Jan 15, 2008 5:30 pm 
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Nev Wrote

Quote:
I received the filter today and will be asking for a refund.


Bummer. I am also looking for a secondary filter system. Whats wrong with it Nev?

Ratty

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Added:
Rhino Tracks & Basket/ 31" Cooper ST's/ Tough Dog 15mm Coils/Tough Dog 40mm Foam Cell Shocks/Red Low Oil Pressure Lamp/Amber Temp over 92 Lamp/Green Coverter Locked Up Lamp/By Pass Filter/ Battery isolator/Temp Guage Mod
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 Post subject: Re: "Frantz" lookalike
PostPosted: Tue Jan 15, 2008 5:58 pm 
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Ratty wrote:
Whats wrong with it Nev?


PM sent.

Nev

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 15, 2008 6:36 pm 
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If you want to install a bypass filter, avoid the cheap e-bay stuff, unfortunately they re not up to the job.
Here are few links to real filters.

http://www.gulfcoastfilters.com/
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/bf.aspx

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