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 Post subject: Limp Mode
PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 3:40 pm 
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so i pulled the codes on my truck and got code 2 and code 12 dingo says these are the symptoms of limp mode it happens to me on warm days turbo stops red light comes on does anyone know what causes limp mode or has had this limp mode happen to them before if so what caused it???

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 Post subject: Re: Limp Mode
PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 4:04 pm 
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when was your timing belt last replaced? Had code 12 and same symptoms and timing belt kit fixed the problem.

http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/forum/view ... hp?t=15398

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 4:09 pm 
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had a new motor put in bout 6 months ago and new belts its not that. its come down to the timing control valve i gotta check it. i was just wondering though what might cause limp mode because turn the car off and back on car runs as normal very odd thats another reason why i say its not timing belt

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 4:12 pm 
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Wld_Srf wrote:
had a new motor put in bout 6 months ago and new belts its not that. its come down to the timing control valve i gotta check it. i was just wondering though what might cause limp mode because turn the car off and back on car runs as normal very odd thats another reason why i say its not timing belt


the 2lte we had the drama with did the same thing. Turn it off and restart and it was fine again. Only played up randomly, got more frequent toward the end. However as you say if the belt is only 6 months old it should not be that. theres a fair bit on info if you search for the tcv on here.

cheers

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 Post subject: Re: Limp Mode
PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 4:13 pm 
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Wld_Srf wrote:
so i pulled the codes on my truck and got code 2 and code 12 dingo says these are the symptoms of limp mode it happens to me on warm days turbo stops red light comes on does anyone know what causes limp mode or has had this limp mode happen to them before if so what caused it???


I said these codes could make it go into limp mode, and I am leaning towards the TCV cause it is doing this when the heat gets up. and also your T/Belt is not that old.

It would be good to keep all this in one thread cause now people are asking questions that you have already answered in other threads and will get confusing.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 4:14 pm 
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did yours tend to do it more on warmer days?? also did you get any strange engine noise when the car did this?

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 4:15 pm 
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sorry dingo ill get rid of the other one. also any chance of gettin a picture explanation or a diagram of where this TCV is and where the connector is i must check

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 4:29 pm 
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Wld_Srf wrote:
sorry dingo ill get rid of the other one. also any chance of gettin a picture explanation or a diagram of where this TCV is and where the connector is i must check


as dingo said in another thread, Timing Control Valve is located under the Injection pump

Timing Control Valve Inspection

(a) Disconnect the valve connector
(b) Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the terminals.

Resistance: 10 - 14 ohms @20degrees
if not as specified , replace the valve

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 4:33 pm 
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 4:42 pm 
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do i have to take off all the belts and fuel pump out to get to this TCV or is there another way does anyone have a pic of the actual motor so i cna get a better idea?

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 4:50 pm 
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Wld_Srf wrote:
do i have to take off all the belts and fuel pump out to get to this TCV or is there another way does anyone have a pic of the actual motor so i cna get a better idea?


you can reach it from underneath the car. just lay underneath and look up at back of pump for the tcv, has two wires coming out. bit tight but isnt hard to find

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Last edited by johnnyboy_3vze on Tue Dec 18, 2007 4:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 4:52 pm 
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so if i need to replace it is it as easy as getting under the car to get it out?

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 4:58 pm 
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Wld_Srf wrote:
so if i need to replace it is it as easy as getting under the car to get it out?


http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/forum/view ... tcv#111174

from thread do not need to remove pump only engine mount support bracket.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 5:15 pm 
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any chance u can tell me where the wires from the TCV run too to i can chase it back to the TCV i am have a bugger of a time trying to find the TCV im not sure what im looking at

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 5:55 pm 
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TCV wires run to front end of plate on side of pump on 1KZTE engine - not sure about 2.4. I replaced my TCV very recently due to continual engine light illumination, then poor running as it went into limp mode. TCV cost me $442.24 after a 5% discount from my local Toyota dealer, and even after removing the pump support bracket on pump rear end, and accessing the valve through the left wheel well, after removing that wheel, it took about 6 1/2 hours. Only 2 allen key bolts and the electrical plug, but my hands are a bit big to get in to the rear bolt, and the 'o'-ring needs to be put into the hole before the new valve can be inserted. The bolt that goes between the pump and the engine is a doozy to reinstall. Bugger of a job.

Before you do all this, make sure your fuel filter is clean, there are no other restrictions to fuel flow, and there are no air leaks in the fuel hoses - the check light and the limp mode stuff occurs via the TCV if these things are at fault.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 6:04 pm 
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can you get 2nd had TCV i intend on gettin a brand newy but im heading away for christmas and dont want to wait the 5 weeks can you go to wreckers and get one off a fuel pump there anything like that.
oh and my fuel filter is only about a month old this problem has happened for about 3 filters. also is there another furl filter in surfs besides the one on the primer?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 6:15 pm 
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is this the TCV part of the fuel pump here as circled?

Image

or is it this part circled


Image

where to i place the + and - needles on the ohm meter to check.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 7:22 pm 
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I think it's the grey one under the circled plug in the 2nd picture, but not sure as pump is different. TCV is under that pump. Will take a photo of old one shortly.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 7:26 pm 
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i think ive just hit the jackpot i found a brand new LN130 2LTE fuel pump for around $450 thinking i should just get this instead of buying a TCV and that the TCV off the new one put it on my old so i dont have to take everything out and just keep it as a spare. i think i read in another thread you can change over the TCV without pulling the fuel pump out am i right

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 7:33 pm 
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Wld_Srf wrote:
i think ive just hit the jackpot i found a brand new LN130 2LTE fuel pump for around $450 thinking i should just get this instead of buying a TCV and that the TCV off the new one put it on my old so i dont have to take everything out and just keep it as a spare. i think i read in another thread you can change over the TCV without pulling the fuel pump out am i right


just make sure you test the old one first so you know thats definently your problem and you dont end up with a spare pump and still a problem #-o

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 7:35 pm 
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still trying to find the TCV so i can test it haha if it is that problem though which im pretty sure it is ill get that pump. every thread i have read about who gets the tapping noise loss of power etc has had a bugged TCV all people with tapping noises. some people have lsot power but no tapping noise and they have had timing belt issues and turbo hose issues.
and thanks yorta a pic would be great because im still struggling to figure out what im looking for

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 7:50 pm 
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This is my old TCV - a little rusted:
Image

Image

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 8:28 pm 
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ah ok so do those wires run around the back of the fuel pump and the pin thing go in the rear of pump?


EDIT: sorry on close look at the side on picture i posted you can tell the TCV is the connection above the circled one and the wire go to the top where the other end must go in through the top of the fuel pump

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 19, 2007 10:17 am 
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so i am going to get this new fuel pump for $500 instead of this new TCV which toyota quoted at $600 i spoke to my mechanic he said he wasnt sure if you can just put and TCV on a fuel pump but i was thinking if toyota sell the seperate it shouldnt matter should it and like some other people on the forum said they just replaced it with a new one does it matter if the TCV comes off another pump or not?

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 19, 2007 3:13 pm 
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The one that can't be replaced is the "Spill Control Valve" which is on top of the pump.

A lot of people and mechanics get it mixed up with the "Timer Control Valve"

Shop around as I think you can get the pump a bit cheaper than that.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 20, 2007 3:24 pm 
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hey guys got my new fuel pump today just want to know what tool or size spanner you use to get the big pin part of on the end of the TCV off the big part that goes into the actual pump??? the biggest spanner i got is a 1inch and the big shifter i have is too wide to fit into the spanner part of it it goes onto the round bit any help please. looks lie i might actually have it all done b4 i head off for crissy

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 20, 2007 3:37 pm 
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Must be an entirely different TCV to the one I have, are you sure you have the right valve? As shown in my pictures above, my TCV was held on by 2 allen key bolts. As Dingo pointed out, you're not trying to remove the Spill Control Valve, are you?

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 20, 2007 5:06 pm 
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damn im an idiot i have been trying to get the other one off. the connector looks the same thanks for clearing it up

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 21, 2007 10:14 am 
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hey guys im up to gettin the old TCV out is there and easy way to do it so far you gotta take the wheel off yeh? and remove the mount bracket is there an easy way to go about gettin that off what is it held on by this bracket?

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 21, 2007 11:52 am 
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On the 1KZTE engine there are 3 bolts (may be 12mm) that hold the back of the fuel pump to the engine. They are pretty easy to get to and remove with a socket, extension, and ratchet. Once the bracket is off, you can see the TCV, relatively easily. Then comes the fiddly work

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 21, 2007 12:14 pm 
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thanks for that yorta. mr brother seems to have done the runner with my sockets might have to pinch next doors set

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 21, 2007 12:28 pm 
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hey yorta where abouts did you get to the bolts from top side of engine bay under it infront of the axle or behind the axle?

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 21, 2007 2:09 pm 
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When the car is jacked up and the wheel is hanging down, remove the wheel, and then access the bolts directly in front of you through the access made by the suspension hanging down. From memory 2 bolt heads face you and the one on the pump faces rearwards. Not all that tight and not all that difficult.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 21, 2007 4:05 pm 
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awesome thanks yorta i just been trying to do it not jacked up high ill give it a go tomorrow thanks

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 22, 2007 11:51 am 
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hey guys how the hell do you undo the two hex head bolts holding the TCV and even when you undo the one closest to the outside of the car how do you get to the one behind it? im havin all sorts of trouble

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 22, 2007 3:08 pm 
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That's what takes the time. Very fiddly, but achievable. A socket with an allen key bit in it, a long extension and a ratchet (the smaller the better). I also put some wheel bearing grease in the socket to improve the grip of the allen key bit, so it didn't all out when I manouvred it into place in the bolt head. Get reasonably comfortable, take your time, have lots of patience and you'll get it.

BAKES (a member on here) might be able to offer more assistance if you PM him - he has done it too.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 22, 2007 11:52 pm 
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ok thanks mate i don't have a allen key part that goes in a socket piece so might go pick one up tomorrow i worked on it all day and got no where on the last bolt also i broke a wire on a plastic connector going in the bottom of the block is that just the oil pressure sender or have i broken something important all the fiddling round ended up breaking it ](*,) fingers crossed its just the pressure sender so ill be all good tomorrow [-o<

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2007 12:16 am 
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Wld_Srf wrote:
i broke a wire on a plastic connector going in the bottom of the block is that just the oil pressure sender or have i broken something important all the fiddling round ended up breaking it ](*,) fingers crossed its just the pressure sender so ill be all good tomorrow [-o<


The only thing in that area is the Crank Angle Sensor. It is very important. Oil pressure sender is on other side of engine.

Nev

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2007 8:06 am 
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can i just undo it take it out and put the wires back in???? and when i take it out is oil gonna go everywhere?

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2007 10:44 am 
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Never removed one myself so I guess you can try. It will depend on what and where it is broken I suppose. BTW, if the part you are referring to has two wires, one red and one white then it will be the crank sensor. Let me know if it's not.

Nev

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'92 LN130 / 2.4 TD / SSR-X / Manual / Garnet Pearl
31X10.5X15s
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2007 11:10 am 
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yeh nev its the red and white wired one so much be crank sensor by the looks of it the wires have just come out of the plug going in the block the ends are stripped so they arnt broken is it possible to just take out the part going int other block and put the wires back in???

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93 Surf SSR-X Wide body 2.4ltr TD Custom $2500 worth of sterio Uniden CB, Running 10 PSI Straight 2.5inch Exhaust no mufflers 2inch Body lift 2inch Susp 33"x12.50 Pro Comp Muds, GU bonnet scoop. $8,900


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2007 11:55 am 
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A bit of info on the crank sensor here -

http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/forum/view ... ank+sensor

You should be able to disconnect the connector from the sensor without removing the sensor itself. Release tab for connector should be a the top of connector. Just be gentle with it and don't break anything else. It's not a good time of the year to be looking for parts.

Nev

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'92 LN130 / 2.4 TD / SSR-X / Manual / Garnet Pearl
31X10.5X15s
TJM - XGS Shocks & Springs
Rockcrawler - Adj.Panhard Rod
Uniden - UHO-75 Handheld


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2007 5:53 pm 
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well thanks to everyone who helped me out on this big mission the new TCV is in after alot of rooting around and nev i soldered those wire back on the connectors but turns out i don't have a plastic connector thing that plugs in the guy who owned the surf before me obviously didn't take much car in the surf and just siliconed them in so they wouldn't fall out so for now they are siliconed back in until i can get a new connector but i started her up and she sounds fine she's idling normal I'm tipping if i bugged it up i would know by now. so thanks to you all hopefully this is the end of my problems in that department.


Cheers Adrian (wld_srf)

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FOR SALE
93 Surf SSR-X Wide body 2.4ltr TD Custom $2500 worth of sterio Uniden CB, Running 10 PSI Straight 2.5inch Exhaust no mufflers 2inch Body lift 2inch Susp 33"x12.50 Pro Comp Muds, GU bonnet scoop. $8,900


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2007 5:56 pm 
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Well done mate. Hope it works well. Mine isn't quite as good as I thought it would be, but it is a lot better. There is at least one more problem I need to fix...and I'm buggered if I know what it is yet...

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'93 Maroon KZN-130 SSR-X 3LTD 1KZTE , Rear ARB Locker, Safari Snorkel, Nite Stalker 200 Spots, Bull/Tow Bars/Side Steps, Tints, HiClones
(2 ), Pirelli Scorpions (31X10.50R15LT), Uniden UH088, Polybag rear shocks, Rhino racks, etc.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2007 5:59 pm 
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haha I'm hearing ya yorta i think with surfs there is always one problem you cant figure out. thanks a lot for your help your advice helped me heaps i was getting so angry and frustrated trying to get that last bolt out I'm surprised the surf doesn't have panel damage from that experience

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FOR SALE
93 Surf SSR-X Wide body 2.4ltr TD Custom $2500 worth of sterio Uniden CB, Running 10 PSI Straight 2.5inch Exhaust no mufflers 2inch Body lift 2inch Susp 33"x12.50 Pro Comp Muds, GU bonnet scoop. $8,900


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