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 Post subject: 2LTE EFI Timing Fix - Please try and report back
PostPosted: Thu Jun 18, 2009 2:29 am 
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Acknowledgement to 4th Surf for this fix.

The fix for perfect timing
Disconnect positive battery leads, turn headlights on, wait 8 hours, reconnect battery leads.
Do this each time you mess with the pump or every couple of years anyway.

The result (for me)

[The timing definitely advanced by several degrees to what I believe is perfect timing. I have more power and more economy.
Starts easily without glowing - previously needed glow plus idle up.
Full boost (10) comes on at 2K. Previously 2.5+
Slightly more diesel knock in start up.
Max torque is now where it should be at around 2,200. My truck now rumbles around the city at no more than 1.5 to 2k revs.
I am looking a bit stupified at my trip meter. Its is showing 180k for 1/3 tank - well under 9 per 100 and this for worst case city driving, lots of cold starts and short trips.
Much better acceleration.
No smoke whatsoever. None. Zilch.

So whats the explanation?
I cant get a workshop manual for the Denso pump - but I believe it is based on a Bosch design and I had the workshop manual for the Bosch EFI. Based on that manual this is what I think happened. With this generation of EFI, the mechanic lines up the distributor as a "basic setting". If you think about it, lining up the timing marks on the pump and the block is very approximate. What is needed is exact timing so that the burn starts in the pre chamber while compression is still rising. This gives a complete burn and highest cylinder pressure. With this generation of EFI the ECU once only takes the position of the crank and uses this to adjust its internal mapping so that it then knows where TDC on the pump is. The ECU does the fine pump timing adjustment ONCE ONLY and then it advances or retards according to the sensors. It does NOT go back to the crank sensor.

I think there may be a bit of a flaw in the Denso EFI. On the Bosch, they stress that when the ignition is turned on , the first thing that happens is the crank reference is reset for that journey. Clearly the Denso is not doing this - as giving the ECU amnesia by disconnecting the batteries and allowing enough time for the capacitors to discharge meant that when the truck was restarted the ECU had to go to the crank sensor to get an updated reference and my timing changed from poor to perfect.

When I look back my batteries have not been offline for more than an hour or so since I had the truck, including when I changed the pump for a 5B300. The ECU had never fine tuned the new pump basic setting to the crank - the ECU thought it was still driving my old pump!

Also, wear means that over the years the timing will retard. So it is good to reset so that the ECU compensates for the wear.

Follow up
There may be a better way of quickly discharging the ECU perhaps by using the diagnostic connectors - but I cant find any references. I dont know if 8 hours offline is required - but I do know that 1 hour is no good.

Would Surfers please try this fix and report back - seems almost too good to be true!

_________________
'92 LN130 / 2.4 LTE / SSR-X / Auto
Added:
Rhino Tracks & Basket/ 31" Cooper ST's/ Tough Dog 15mm Coils/Tough Dog 40mm Foam Cell Shocks/Red Low Oil Pressure Lamp/Amber Temp over 92 Lamp/Green Coverter Locked Up Lamp/By Pass Filter/ Battery isolator/Temp Guage Mod
Replaced:
Injectors, Fuel Pump, Alternator, Starter, Condensor Fan


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 18, 2009 5:21 pm 
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this has interested me quite a bit. i will disconnect the batteries (with my switch) overnight. i will report back tomorrow.


what i have noticed sometimes, is that one day it will run great, no smoke on acceleration (not petal to the floor obviously, just leaving a red light for example), no engine vibration, stays at lower revs, lower egt's, SMOOTHER in general.

then the next day it will be kinda boggy, sound different, all smoky etc...

I dont know if this has anything to do with this situation, but it seems like when you start it it "picks its mood, and stick with it until you turn it off. "


and you did the injection pump in an hour??? wow

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 Post subject: Re: 2LTE EFI Timing Fix - Please try and report back
PostPosted: Thu Jun 18, 2009 6:58 pm 
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Ratty wrote:
Acknowledgement to 4th Surf for this fix.


When I look back my batteries have not been offline for more than an hour or so since I had the truck, including when I changed the pump for a 5B300.


If you can change the pump in an hour you are a legend :)
I have done atleast 8 of them and it takes me a hell of a lot longer than that and thats using air tools.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 19, 2009 6:38 am 
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report: nothing... sorry .

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 19, 2009 11:25 am 
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Quote:
and you did the injection pump in an hour??? wow


Nah. It took a whole weekend. I had one battery connected for most of the time.

_________________
'92 LN130 / 2.4 LTE / SSR-X / Auto
Added:
Rhino Tracks & Basket/ 31" Cooper ST's/ Tough Dog 15mm Coils/Tough Dog 40mm Foam Cell Shocks/Red Low Oil Pressure Lamp/Amber Temp over 92 Lamp/Green Coverter Locked Up Lamp/By Pass Filter/ Battery isolator/Temp Guage Mod
Replaced:
Injectors, Fuel Pump, Alternator, Starter, Condensor Fan


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 19, 2009 7:25 pm 
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Raboyto said

Quote:
then the next day it will be kinda boggy, sound different, all smoky etc...


Sounds like retarded ignition according to wiki
Quote:
Advancing the start of injection (injecting before the piston reaches TDC) results in higher in-cylinder pressure and temperature, and higher efficiency, but also results in elevated engine noise and increased oxides of nitrogen (NOx) emissions due to higher combustion temperatures. Delaying start of injection causes incomplete combustion, reduced fuel efficiency and an increase in exhaust smoke, containing a considerable amount of particulate matter and unburned hydrocarbons .


Quote:
report: nothing... sorry


This is nuts. My timing definitely reset after the ECU flush. Perhaps your timing was already spot on. The ECU needs the manual setting (timing marks on pump) lined up otherwise it could be out of spec. Did you leave the headlights on?

_________________
'92 LN130 / 2.4 LTE / SSR-X / Auto
Added:
Rhino Tracks & Basket/ 31" Cooper ST's/ Tough Dog 15mm Coils/Tough Dog 40mm Foam Cell Shocks/Red Low Oil Pressure Lamp/Amber Temp over 92 Lamp/Green Coverter Locked Up Lamp/By Pass Filter/ Battery isolator/Temp Guage Mod
Replaced:
Injectors, Fuel Pump, Alternator, Starter, Condensor Fan


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 20, 2009 11:25 am 
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Once more for the slow learner, is it a perfect sequence?
Disconnect the battery
Turn lights on? Hi beam/low beam?
Leave key on?
Wait eight hours
Turn key off?
Turn lights off?
Reconnect battery.

The reason I ask is it a perfect sequence is we uses to re-tune the FH 12 Volvo's when they came out in 1995 by starting them with out touching any controls with the park brake off. And if wasn't exactly right was unsuccessful
Regards Trevor


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 20, 2009 12:58 pm 
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It's not a perfect sequence. All you are doing is to turn something on to allow the capacitors in the ECU to discharge completely with the headlamp circuit being the easiest one to use as to be able to secure the vehicle overnight, you could leave a brick on the brake pedal or turn the ignition on for example. Unlike later vehicles with more "Fly by wire" technology the only thing you need to do is once all hooked up and running is warm it up to operating temperature and go for a "Brisk" drive

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Hers 1992 SSR-X 2door wide body
His. 1990 UZN130 SSR Limited. 1UZ-FE, 5 speed manual, Updated to SSR-G spec
Daughters car 1982 RN41 hilux ute with Surf bits
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 20, 2009 6:27 pm 
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quite an interesting finding you have there, i have d/c'd my batteries tonite to see how it goes, also a good reason to clean my terminals lol

its not gunna hurt to try, will only take 20mins to get the stereo all tunned back in and the possible gains to be made make it worth it.

ill report back with the news :)

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 20, 2009 7:26 pm 
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Well I did this and the car seems to go a bit better now but then I also adjusted the tps while I was there and that to could have made an improvement :-k

Ed

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system,3" dump pipe, 22.5 second quarter mile(roughly confirmed, could be slower :-$)
93 3.0 ssrx auto (should be a lot faster :badgrin: )


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 11:52 am 
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well i hooked the batteries up this morn and first thing i noticed was how easy it started and no smoke, no stuttering or coughing lol she wakes up better then i do now, then i took her for a quick strap and i noticed a difference in acceleration and the engine sounded different, there is a lot less chatter now also

so was only a brief test, next tank will tell me if its changed anything for the better tho


thanks again Ratty

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 3:39 pm 
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what the hell.... im pretty sure mine is worse now.

(i said no change before, but that was starting once and driving once.) now i get a bigger shake and a bit more smoke out the rear end. arg.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 4:07 pm 
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raboyto2 wrote:
what the hell.... im pretty sure mine is worse now.

(i said no change before, but that was starting once and driving once.) now i get a bigger shake and a bit more smoke out the rear end. arg.


Check that the base timing is correct. There are two marks, one on the injector pump body and one on the timing housing that must line up.

Yet my 2door does start rough, blow a bit of (black) smoke and is a little rough cold. This is due to the base timing being advanced slightly. The trade off to this is that it performs a lot better than you'd expect for a 2L-Te with superb fuel economy so is staying like it.

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Petrol and Diesel Mechanic by trade

Hers 1992 SSR-X 2door wide body
His. 1990 UZN130 SSR Limited. 1UZ-FE, 5 speed manual, Updated to SSR-G spec
Daughters car 1982 RN41 hilux ute with Surf bits
His junior... Buzz Lightyear electric Quad
Mr Dog..Any car with door open


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 7:01 pm 
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Hmm. Everyone who has tried this is reporting a "difference". I am really sorry that Raboyto's is a bad difference but the the theory is that if the timing marks are lined up and the ECU flushed then the ECU will automatically fine adjust to the timing that Toyota intended for the LTE.

Toyota originally advertised this engine as having "exceptional economy" and this might explain why consumption is mysteriously poor in random surfs.

Gotta find a workshop manual for this.

_________________
'92 LN130 / 2.4 LTE / SSR-X / Auto
Added:
Rhino Tracks & Basket/ 31" Cooper ST's/ Tough Dog 15mm Coils/Tough Dog 40mm Foam Cell Shocks/Red Low Oil Pressure Lamp/Amber Temp over 92 Lamp/Green Coverter Locked Up Lamp/By Pass Filter/ Battery isolator/Temp Guage Mod
Replaced:
Injectors, Fuel Pump, Alternator, Starter, Condensor Fan


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 7:06 pm 
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yeah mysterious is right, mine was happily doin 450ish to a tank then all of a sudden down to 340 a tank, without any obvious signs, ie no leaking bits, no extra smoke, no power loss or gain, was weird, injectors are due soon but will see how this goes

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 31, 2009 10:11 am 
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Thanks for this handy fix Guys, I tried it the other night. turned the ign on and hi beams, disconnected the batteries and left it over night, switch off the ign and lights the next morning and reconnected the battery, glowed and started first kick without running rough or blowing smoke :D and it started even better this morning, running better on the road, will report on fuel economy after a couple of tanks.

I recommend this fix to anyone first before spending thousands chasing this problem. I have replaced the complete fuel system on my truck, many engine sensors and fitted a new cylinder head without any luck, it wasn't unit I did the disconnect that it fixed it.

Cheers Guys

Greg

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 31, 2009 9:12 pm 
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This could be why I'm getting such good figures as when I bought my surf, it had been sitting for 18mths unused.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 03, 2009 9:08 pm 
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I like everyone else have replaced the whole fuel system, including injector pump with a 300 serious pump, checked compression and everything is good, but still have the starting problem that everyone else has.

I have tried the battery disconnection method to give the ECU amnesia and on my surf this has made no difference.
I have one other thing to try yet and that is to replace the ECU coolant temp sensor - which I haven't done yet, as it is in an awkward place... This will be next on the list and than I will have ran out of things to try.

Question - these vehicles have a crank angle sensor to establish the correct timing, but the injector pump only lines up on a couple of marks which is a pretty average setting, therefore relying on the computer to adjust timing, but is there any way the computer knows that it has actually injected the fuel at the right time?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 12:46 am 
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Quote:
Question - these vehicles have a crank angle sensor to establish the correct timing, but the injector pump only lines up on a couple of marks which is a pretty average setting, therefore relying on the computer to adjust timing, but is there any way the computer knows that it has actually injected the fuel at the right time?


I THINK the couple of marks is the "middle" of where the ECU can fire the pump. It is a "basic" setting. IE its roughly top dead centre and by using the timing control valve the ecu can choose to fire, say, anywhere between 10 degrees before or 10 degrees after this rough TDC. It get the precise TDC from the crank angle sensor and uses this + other sensors to decide when to fire. As it wants mostly to fire BEFORE TDC the ECU takes a reference from the Crank Angle and stores it in its memory. (Think about it, no good the ECU saying, Crank Angle has just flashed TDC - I wish I had fired 5 degrees ago). At least that's the way the Bosch stuff of the same period worked.
So, the ECU doesn't get get feed back from the pump. It tells the pump what to do.
I THINK that if the basic setting is so badly out that the ECU cant fire the pump when it wants to, you get the crank angle error on the diagnostics. Wish I could get the Denso manual

_________________
'92 LN130 / 2.4 LTE / SSR-X / Auto
Added:
Rhino Tracks & Basket/ 31" Cooper ST's/ Tough Dog 15mm Coils/Tough Dog 40mm Foam Cell Shocks/Red Low Oil Pressure Lamp/Amber Temp over 92 Lamp/Green Coverter Locked Up Lamp/By Pass Filter/ Battery isolator/Temp Guage Mod
Replaced:
Injectors, Fuel Pump, Alternator, Starter, Condensor Fan


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 11:31 am 
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Hi mate
only a thought but the coolant sensor could be tested with ambient temperature if you could disconnect it and plug another one in, as long as it wasn’t touching any thing or getting temperature from your fingers. would save you from removing it from the block for nothing and if it tested out OK you could return the old one.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 5:47 pm 
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I tested my ecu temp sensor after I had replaced it and it worked as far as went up and down in resistance depending on temperature but it was still faulty as the car is much better with the new one

Ed

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2/1991 ssr 2.4 2L-TE auto,2" susp lift,, runs 12.5psi,2.5 inch
system,3" dump pipe, 22.5 second quarter mile(roughly confirmed, could be slower :-$)
93 3.0 ssrx auto (should be a lot faster :badgrin: )


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2009 10:31 am 
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So you had a win? No more white smoke[unburnt diesel] on start up when cold? And not a cracked head. There might be hope for mine yet! So what did you remove to replace the sensor? Is there a trick you would like to share?
Trevor


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2009 5:37 pm 
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If you read my sticky on ecu temp sensor you will find somewhere the process of removal and refitting (LN130 stickies)

Ed

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2/1991 ssr 2.4 2L-TE auto,2" susp lift,, runs 12.5psi,2.5 inch
system,3" dump pipe, 22.5 second quarter mile(roughly confirmed, could be slower :-$)
93 3.0 ssrx auto (should be a lot faster :badgrin: )


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 23, 2009 12:42 pm 
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Had to try it, Sorry to report no difference but I spose you cant fix what aint broke.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2009 12:09 pm 
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trying it now have 4 hours spare.hope that's long enough will get back to you all then


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 08, 2009 9:26 pm 
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I tried it with no noticeable change to starting and performance.

Sorry


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2009 4:53 pm 
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im trying this again....

except im disconnecting it every night for a full tank of gas. (got a battery switch, so its quite simple for me).

i have noticed one thing so far (3 days in). my cruising EGTs are lower. we will see about fuel economy?

starting is still poor. but temperature is around the 0 mark , and thats when i have the worst starts. waiting for it to get colder.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 22, 2009 2:31 pm 
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Might this work on a KZN130 as well?

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• Temp gauge mod • Slip clutch adj • 71°C therm • Alu rad • Bl. EGR hose • UNI filter • 2" Racho adj • 32" Bighorns • Lockup mod
• Diff br • Bonnet vents • 2" BL • Bypass filter • FWH • Lockright front • Sep. Trans Cooler • Snorkel • 3" dump/exhaust


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 22, 2009 2:51 pm 
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sireddie wrote:
Might this work on a KZN130 as well?


Didn't seem to make any difference at all to mine.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 22, 2009 3:16 pm 
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Ok, might try just in case :)

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• Temp gauge mod • Slip clutch adj • 71°C therm • Alu rad • Bl. EGR hose • UNI filter • 2" Racho adj • 32" Bighorns • Lockup mod
• Diff br • Bonnet vents • 2" BL • Bypass filter • FWH • Lockright front • Sep. Trans Cooler • Snorkel • 3" dump/exhaust


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 22, 2009 3:45 pm 
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sireddie wrote:
Might this work on a KZN130 as well?

It should work on anything with an ecu :-s

ED

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2/1991 ssr 2.4 2L-TE auto,2" susp lift,, runs 12.5psi,2.5 inch
system,3" dump pipe, 22.5 second quarter mile(roughly confirmed, could be slower :-$)
93 3.0 ssrx auto (should be a lot faster :badgrin: )


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 22, 2009 5:36 pm 
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the smurf wrote:
sireddie wrote:
Might this work on a KZN130 as well?

It should work on anything with an ecu :-s

ED


only if thats the problem :P (and thats a very specific problem with capacitors not letting their charge out). ecus can fail in many ways.

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- (pic) 1992 Toyota Hilux Surf ( 2L-TE , Auto, 4.88 gears, 33" wheels)
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 25, 2009 2:47 am 
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Ok, so if i understand correctly the timing adjusted first start up and ran perfect? Or did you have to go for a drive first?

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2009 9:20 am 
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Just tried this overnight but I didn't really notice any difference. Maybe my ECU has been OK all this time.

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'94 Auto KZN130
• Temp gauge mod • Slip clutch adj • 71°C therm • Alu rad • Bl. EGR hose • UNI filter • 2" Racho adj • 32" Bighorns • Lockup mod
• Diff br • Bonnet vents • 2" BL • Bypass filter • FWH • Lockright front • Sep. Trans Cooler • Snorkel • 3" dump/exhaust


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 16, 2009 10:01 pm 
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Had a battery stuff up, so thort id give it a go.
I found easier starting and no smoke (but it is hot here at the moment).

Most of the diesel knock has gone at low revs and things are smoother

Power gains are negligible, but roll on in 5th is better.

Dont know about fuel as its early days, but it was filled up the day i did the rest

Will report back on that. Truck is driving better.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 3:45 pm 
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Hi everyone,

Had a go at the ECU reset last night, decided whilst the batteries are disconnected for 8 hours that i would rip the instrument cluster out an do the temp gauge mod at the same time.

1st took off the rocker cover to find No.1 TDC on firing stroke, (easier than taking covers off the front of the motor) Just look for the lobes on the cam on No.1 to be pointing upwards.

2nd. Turned off all accessories, even took the globes out of the courtesy door lights as not to drain current when opening doors to start motor upon reset. Headlights on then disconnected the batteries.

3rd. With 8 hours + to kill, out came the dashboard and the instrument cluster, did the temp gauge mod, found and removed the annoying reverse beeper, had a few beers, went to bed.

After breakfast, i re fitted the cluster and dash, cleaned and refitted rocker cover and induction piping. Double checked that everything was fitted properly and had no bits and screws leftover, turned off headlights before reconnecting the batteries.

Once batteries were reconnected, turned the key to glow for 5 seconds, started the engine, closed the door, went and made a coffee whilst letting the car idle for 5 minutes so the ECU can do its re evaluating biz.

Whilst engine was running. quickly check for oil leaks (none) finish coffee
then out for a roadtest. Big difference in throttle response, heaps more pull off the line, less throttle needed to get the ol' truck up and going.

Before reset i was getting 450km per tankfull, hope to improve a little, will see in a few weeks as i hope to see 500+ per tank. I'm aiming to get economy down to better than 10lt per 100km. \:D/ =D> :D

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 4:01 pm 
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That's great Devee8 just not sure why you put motor to tdc :-k
If it's for this reset ,I don't think its needed :-k

ED

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2/1991 ssr 2.4 2L-TE auto,2" susp lift,, runs 12.5psi,2.5 inch
system,3" dump pipe, 22.5 second quarter mile(roughly confirmed, could be slower :-$)
93 3.0 ssrx auto (should be a lot faster :badgrin: )


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 4:19 pm 
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The reason i set up TDC was to check the cam and pump timing lined up correctly and the crank angle sensor would be looking directly at TDC. I was almost going to get out the degree wheel and dial indicator and dial in the cam first but the stubbies got the better of me. Cheers. :D

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 5:53 pm 
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Devee8 wrote:
the stubbies got the better of me. Cheers. :D

That's probably why I never go to to much trouble :-s
I hate wasting drinking time 8-[

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2/1991 ssr 2.4 2L-TE auto,2" susp lift,, runs 12.5psi,2.5 inch
system,3" dump pipe, 22.5 second quarter mile(roughly confirmed, could be slower :-$)
93 3.0 ssrx auto (should be a lot faster :badgrin: )


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 18, 2009 8:31 pm 
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WHAT AN AMAZING DIFFERENCE!!!

I know that a 2.4 diesel ain't no powerhouse Since the last car i owned was a Holden VU SS 5.7lt. 6 speed manual Series 2 with a few mods putting 210kw (280hp) to the back wheels, (a real tyre fryer). \:D/ \:D/

With the few mods iv'e done to my Surf, thanks to this website, I ain't disappointed with the way this little bugger performs now. :D

The ECU reset has worked a treat.The little Surf is fair up and CRACKING =D> =D>

For the first time, I ain't the slowest to take off from the lights anymore :D

Did a right turn at a "round a bout" this arvo, buried the throttle into the floor and broke out into WHEELSPIN!! :D :D

Really!! in the dry, no oil, detergent or spilled diesel on the road to assist!!

Even chirrped into second \:D/ \:D/

I stongly reccommend if you havn't done this in the last 12 months, DO IT. Follow the recommended procedure that Ratty has posted here exactly and marvel at the results :D :D :D

PS Thakns Ratty, Legendary stuff mate....

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 18, 2009 8:49 pm 
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Hey Devee8, fit some fwh's on now and you'll notice a good improvement on takeoff as well \:D/
Just don't hit the 4wd button with them unlocked while moving :-s
I also noticed an improvement in power after doing the ecu block temp sensor but that could be more because mines auto :-k

ED

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2/1991 ssr 2.4 2L-TE auto,2" susp lift,, runs 12.5psi,2.5 inch
system,3" dump pipe, 22.5 second quarter mile(roughly confirmed, could be slower :-$)
93 3.0 ssrx auto (should be a lot faster :badgrin: )


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 18, 2009 8:53 pm 
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I'll probably upset you now..... mine's AUTO too!!!!

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Devee8 wrote:
I'll probably upset you now..... mine's AUTO too!!!!

Doesn't surprise me because I'm happy with the get up and go with the little 2.4 auto considering i'm about 40% down on compression ](*,)
Can't waite to do the rings as I should get a 50% improvement(in compression at least) \:D/

ED

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2/1991 ssr 2.4 2L-TE auto,2" susp lift,, runs 12.5psi,2.5 inch
system,3" dump pipe, 22.5 second quarter mile(roughly confirmed, could be slower :-$)
93 3.0 ssrx auto (should be a lot faster :badgrin: )


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 18, 2009 9:08 pm 
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It gets worse,

had to change the turbo a few weeks ago 'cause something foreign has gone through it and chewed the blades to bits, sent metal shavings through the motor, got heaps of blow-by and down on compression 'cause the rings would be flogged out and most likley scored the bores #-o

only realized this when i investigated why it's leaking oil from the inlet manifold????

Didn't know at the time when i bought the Surf from a car yard 6 months ago.

It had $9,000.00 on the window and i drove it home for $5,500.00 so i don't think i've got much comeback on them now.

With the engine as it is, it's a good test mule for mods before i either rebuild it or drop an 8 in :D

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 2009 11:53 am 
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Quote:
Thanks Ratty, Legendary stuff mate....


We owe the thanks to 4th Surf, not me. I just revealed his "secret".

This is one of his "tricks of the trade". Wish I lived close to him so that he could look after my Surf. I owe him entire crates of beer. My Surf has been a dream since a) this timing fix and b) synthetic oil and a bypass filter. All performance and overheating tissues gone. It's just like a relaxed reliable 2.4 ltr diesel Toyota donk. Just how it should be. The only issue I have is a bit of misfiring when starting cold - that is because the 2nd stage glows are not working.

I am pretty sure now that the problem is a capacitor in the ECU, which takes the crank reference when starting, or cranking, does not discharge and so never gets a new reference. With wear, timing retards.

I might just open the ecu and give the components a good spray with contact cleaner - could be as simple as a bad earth.

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'92 LN130 / 2.4 LTE / SSR-X / Auto
Added:
Rhino Tracks & Basket/ 31" Cooper ST's/ Tough Dog 15mm Coils/Tough Dog 40mm Foam Cell Shocks/Red Low Oil Pressure Lamp/Amber Temp over 92 Lamp/Green Coverter Locked Up Lamp/By Pass Filter/ Battery isolator/Temp Guage Mod
Replaced:
Injectors, Fuel Pump, Alternator, Starter, Condensor Fan


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 2009 7:42 pm 
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Reading these threads, I'm quite interested with ECU Amnesia.

Mine is 92 Surf from Japan and was overhauled September of last year. Since then I found it OK except that the Check Engine Lamp was always "ON". When speeding up (approx. 100kph) I can't see the Green Turbo Lamp on my dashboard but I can feel and hear that the turbo is going.

During start-up, I can see both lamp (Green and Amber) coming then Green "OFF" while the Amber remained "ON". It remained "ON" all- throughout my driving.

Will doing the ECU Amnesia reset the Check Engine Lamp? Any comment or suggestion is greatly appreciated.

Chard


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 2009 7:50 pm 
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chardspm wrote:
Reading these threads, I'm quite interested with ECU Amnesia.

Mine is 92 Surf from Japan and was overhauled September of last year. Since then I found it OK except that the Check Engine Lamp was always "ON". When speeding up (approx. 100kph) I can't see the Green Turbo Lamp on my dashboard but I can feel and hear that the turbo is going.

During start-up, I can see both lamp (Green and Amber) coming then Green "OFF" while the Amber remained "ON". It remained "ON" all- throughout my driving.

Will doing the ECU Amnesia reset the Check Engine Lamp? Any comment or suggestion is greatly appreciated.

Chard


Check lamp will be on because there is a fault present, check for DTCs before doing the reset and remedy any faults, as for no boost light make sure that the boost sensor on the air filter "box" is not only connected to the wiring harness but that the "Vacuum line" is connected to the manifold..

And yes the light will reset doing this but probably come back on again if there is a fault

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Petrol and Diesel Mechanic by trade

Hers 1992 SSR-X 2door wide body
His. 1990 UZN130 SSR Limited. 1UZ-FE, 5 speed manual, Updated to SSR-G spec
Daughters car 1982 RN41 hilux ute with Surf bits
His junior... Buzz Lightyear electric Quad
Mr Dog..Any car with door open


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 25, 2009 12:38 pm 
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Dear 4th Surf,

Thanks for your reply.
I tried the ECU Amnesia last night hoping that the Check Lamp will be normal but you're right, it's still ON. When speeding up, Green Turbo lamp doesn't come out too.

It's been a while that my surf is with this condition. Been checking possible causes (i.e. vacuum hoses leaks, disconnected hoses, etc) but to no avail. Do you think my turbo pressure sensor is already broken? How could I possibly check it?

More Thanks,
Chard


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 25, 2009 12:52 pm 
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Firstly you need to see what codes are in it so TE1 to E1 in the diagnostic box under the bonnet, ign on and count the flashes of the lamp. There is a proceedure and list of codes in the downloads section of the site.

I would also assume that being in Phils your Surf has been converted to Left Hand Drive so you could possibly even be looking at a wiring issue

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Petrol and Diesel Mechanic by trade

Hers 1992 SSR-X 2door wide body
His. 1990 UZN130 SSR Limited. 1UZ-FE, 5 speed manual, Updated to SSR-G spec
Daughters car 1982 RN41 hilux ute with Surf bits
His junior... Buzz Lightyear electric Quad
Mr Dog..Any car with door open


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 25, 2009 1:48 pm 
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Yes, it was converted to Left Hand drive and the diagnostic was already not functional (I guess). Prior to its overhauling, both lamps were normal. I'm thinking some vacuum hoses to be improperly disconnected or some related parts to be broken already after it was overhauled.

Sorry my surf case might be too complicated.


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